Note to future novice automobile electricians: When installing (I assume) a radar detector, do not pick up power from the 22 ga wires feeding the dome light above the windshield. If you simply cannot help yourself, do not route the newly installed power wires under the hard plastic trim and over the sharp edge of the windshield frame. Doing so has the potential to wear through the insulation and then to melt the dome light wiring across the top of the windshield and down the A pillar…
Stock wiring following removal of non-stock shorted wiring. (visible at edge of hole) Initially all insulation was melted together. 15 amp fuse blows when the insulation’s all gone.
I *think* I have it repaired. I at least replaced some insulation and it no longer immediately blows the #11 fuse. Lights work manually, but door switches will still require some work. (Update: see below.)
97º and it’s now too warm to work in a dark blue vehicle.
Small steps.
Addendum: The proper repair is to replace this harness in its entirety. The insulation is damaged from this light through to the door switch and maybe further. The circuit is from fuse #11 to the cigar lighter to the front dome light to the ‘trunk’ dome light. The two dome lights ground through the doors and hatch switches. The driver’s side switch wiring shows severe heat damage. I haven’t yet examined the passenger side nor the rear hatch switches. I’m expecting similar damage there. For now, after de-rusting the driver’s door switch, the dome lights work as they should.